Baby Adele says hi to the community. She arrives on 22 Mar 12, 0521pm.
I just need to wait for the birth of my numero dos to start writing again for the "new" year.
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Adele Says Hi
Baby Adele says hi to the community. She arrives on 22 Mar 12, 0521pm.
I just need to wait for the birth of my numero dos to start writing again for the "new" year.
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Petzl RocTrip China
It's been quite a while since I wrote something on my blog. Not that nothing happened in my life this year, just that there's nothing exciting enough to keep me rooted in front of the desktop. Two weeks ago, I attended the Petzl RocTrip China in the Getu Valley, the first time Petzl has ever held a RocTrip in Asia since its inception in 2002. Getu is a small rural village of rustic houses, quite the opposite of Yangshou. There' just a handful of restaurants, guest houses and sundry shops along the main road. The climbing crags requires some decent walking from the basecamp. Wednesday, October 25 After registering, we were invited for an equipment inspection and safety check on our topping-up technique.After completing the check, our guidebook was officially stamped with an event seal of the event and we were issued an access passes for entry into the park and a wrist band. The venue of choice on the first day had to be the Great Arch which is northwest of basecamp and the only way to get across is by boat manned by a single boatman with long bamboo pole. This is followed by climbing more than 1700 steps.
Francis, Sulhan and Ronald heading for the Great Arch
The Great Arch
Look who's at the dock?
Routes ranging from 8b (5.13d) to 9a (5.14d) on the left-hand side of the arch drew the most attention. Renowned climbers such as Sasha DiGiulian, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma and others took turnout on some of the most difficult routes.
Francis on Drill Team 7c+ at Great Arch Right Side
Thursday, October 25 The opening ceremony took place at the climber's basecamp. We later walked though the drizzle and muddy path in search of Banyang's Cave. Most of the routes have very obvious positive holds in the form large features on monster tufas.
The treacherous path to Banyang's Cave
Ronald on Calf 8a at Banyang's Cave
Friday, October 26
We decided to head to Oliver's Crack which is is about 50 meters from the road. The wall is equipped with 12 routes between 6b and 7c. This crag, which is has a mixture of featured and steep walls, Climbing at Oliver's Crack tend to attract curious stares from the locals passing by on the road.
Saturday, October 27
The finale was back on the Great Arch where all the invited pro athletes gave a real show with numerous sends of the sport routes and many ascents of the multi-pitch routes. At nightfall, all climbers gathered on the plaza of the village for the the party. There were some very memorable surpriseas two Chinese climbing couples were officially married on stage under the witness of Lynn Hill. It was hardcore partying there after with all the Petzl team athletes on stage leading the party
Dave Graham
Myself, Dave Graham and Francis
By Sunday morning, the entire village had quieted down and majority of the climbing community has left Getu. The luckier ones stayed around for a couple more days and took advantage of the amazing climbing in this beautiful valley.
Francis, Sulhan and Ronald heading for the Great Arch
The Great Arch
Look who's at the dock? Routes ranging from 8b (5.13d) to 9a (5.14d) on the left-hand side of the arch drew the most attention. Renowned climbers such as Sasha DiGiulian, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma and others took turnout on some of the most difficult routes.
Francis on Drill Team 7c+ at Great Arch Right SideThursday, October 25 The opening ceremony took place at the climber's basecamp. We later walked though the drizzle and muddy path in search of Banyang's Cave. Most of the routes have very obvious positive holds in the form large features on monster tufas.
The treacherous path to Banyang's Cave
Ronald on Calf 8a at Banyang's CaveFriday, October 26
We decided to head to Oliver's Crack which is is about 50 meters from the road. The wall is equipped with 12 routes between 6b and 7c. This crag, which is has a mixture of featured and steep walls, Climbing at Oliver's Crack tend to attract curious stares from the locals passing by on the road.
Saturday, October 27
The finale was back on the Great Arch where all the invited pro athletes gave a real show with numerous sends of the sport routes and many ascents of the multi-pitch routes. At nightfall, all climbers gathered on the plaza of the village for the the party. There were some very memorable surpriseas two Chinese climbing couples were officially married on stage under the witness of Lynn Hill. It was hardcore partying there after with all the Petzl team athletes on stage leading the party
Dave Graham
Myself, Dave Graham and FrancisBy Sunday morning, the entire village had quieted down and majority of the climbing community has left Getu. The luckier ones stayed around for a couple more days and took advantage of the amazing climbing in this beautiful valley.
Thursday, June 9, 2011
ACSC Continental Officials Course 2011
The second ACSC Continental Officials Course was held in Putrajaya, Malaysia from 24 to 29 may 2011. This is the first time I am assisting as a trainer to IFSC Jury President Mr Francis Lo. Francis is also my trainer when I was taking my Judges Course in Imst 2005. A total of 19 participants from China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Iran, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Malaysia, and Thailand attended the course. Prerequisite for course is that particpants need to be a National Judge with one year judging experience. They are also required to write an essay of not less than 70 words on why they hey want to attend the course. A Continental Routesetter COurse was conducted concurrently by IFSC Chief Routesetter, Mr Kim DongHyun.
A written test was held on the first day of the course to determine the participants' knowledge and familiarity of the current rules. This test constitutes 30% of the overall results.
The training course were focused on going though the current rules. Participants were required to read off the rulebook as well as to explain sections of the rules based on their understanding as a test of their proficiency in English. Case studies were discussed and personal experience were shared among the class. The second day of the class ends of with a practical session on typography and dynamic belay. That was also the only day where participants had time to do some climbing and bouldering.
Judgment Day arrived in the form of a four hour written examination which forms the remianing 70% of the overall results on the third day. The course was concluded on the fourth day with with a recap of the test and exam questions. Now the participants are probably waiting anxiously at home for their results.
Participants with an overall result of 80% or higher will be conferred the status of Continental Aspirant Judge where they will be required to practise in two competitions cpbvering all discplines of Lead, Buldering and Speed. Participants scoring 60 to 79% shall be conferred the statues of Regional Judge.
This course has reinforce my belief of establishing a formal structure for the development of Judges in Singapore as the participants who have done well in the test on the first day hail from countries with very established system for the development of Judges in their country. I hope that the with a structure in place, our next batch of Singapore Judges can do us proud in the next Continental Judges Course.
A tip on the prerequisite of a continental judge:
1. A National Judge with at least one year of active judging experience
2. Need to be familiar format and rules of all the disciplines
3. Be aware of the changes in the Rules
4. Proficient in English
5. Make friends with your Routesetting Team
A written test was held on the first day of the course to determine the participants' knowledge and familiarity of the current rules. This test constitutes 30% of the overall results.
The training course were focused on going though the current rules. Participants were required to read off the rulebook as well as to explain sections of the rules based on their understanding as a test of their proficiency in English. Case studies were discussed and personal experience were shared among the class. The second day of the class ends of with a practical session on typography and dynamic belay. That was also the only day where participants had time to do some climbing and bouldering.
Judgment Day arrived in the form of a four hour written examination which forms the remianing 70% of the overall results on the third day. The course was concluded on the fourth day with with a recap of the test and exam questions. Now the participants are probably waiting anxiously at home for their results.
Participants with an overall result of 80% or higher will be conferred the status of Continental Aspirant Judge where they will be required to practise in two competitions cpbvering all discplines of Lead, Buldering and Speed. Participants scoring 60 to 79% shall be conferred the statues of Regional Judge.
This course has reinforce my belief of establishing a formal structure for the development of Judges in Singapore as the participants who have done well in the test on the first day hail from countries with very established system for the development of Judges in their country. I hope that the with a structure in place, our next batch of Singapore Judges can do us proud in the next Continental Judges Course.
A tip on the prerequisite of a continental judge:
1. A National Judge with at least one year of active judging experience
2. Need to be familiar format and rules of all the disciplines
3. Be aware of the changes in the Rules
4. Proficient in English
5. Make friends with your Routesetting Team
Monday, May 2, 2011
The Month of May Welcomes Two More Climbing Gym
Singapore welcomes the opening of two more climbing gyms in the month of May:
14 May 2011:Kinetics Climbing
22 May 2011:Onsight Climbing Gym
14 May 2011:Kinetics Climbing
22 May 2011:Onsight Climbing Gym
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Monday, February 14, 2011
Monday, February 7, 2011
Ice Ice Baby
It's quite seldom that we get to see videos of ice climbing competitions:
2011 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP from hwang sang kyu on Vimeo.
2011 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP from hwang sang kyu on Vimeo.
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